This 2002 Ford F150 came in with the complaint that the driver's window goes down but will not come back up. The driver's door uses a one touch auto down feature that makes it a little difficult to test but this one was even more difficult due to the fact that the wiring diagrams did not match the truck. I had jumped the wiring at the window motor the evening before so the customer could drive home and bring it back when he had a ride.

The first thing I had to do in order to remove the door panel was the grasp the left edge trim panel and pull it from the door.

Once it was removed I had access to the hidden screw and I removed it.

Next I removed the switch panel by lifting up on the forward edge and sliding the assembly forward towards the door jamb.

After unhooking the harness connectors I grabbed the upper edge of the door handle bezel and pulled the forward edge away from the door.

With the front clip released I slid the bezel forward to release the rear edge.

The next step was to remove the screw that was behind the bezel

After that I grabbed the pull handle and lifted the door panel up and off of its hook retainers.

With the door panel away from the door I leaned it out and reached down and removed the courtesy light from the panel. Just twist and pull.

I removed the four screws that held the speaker in place.

Depressed the latch and pulled the harness connector from the speaker.

I started pulling the vapor barrier loose being careful not to damage it.

I then taped it up and out of the way so that I could work unencumbered.

After physically identifying the wires, I determined a test sequence. I did not take pictures of the testing until after I had put the door back together. So I had to pull the switch back loose to show testing. Testing was done with a fused jumper wire and a test light.First I checked the wires to see which one had power on it with the key on. It turned out to be a green wire at position 4 although the diagram shows that it should be a light blue/black wire.

Next I checked the brown/white wire, position 8 (white/black according to the diagram) as I had traced this one back to the motor when the door panel was off. It had power on it with the switch in the up position. I next connected my test light to a power source and checked to make sure it had a ground in the down position. It did.

I then by checking the diagram and by finding which wire position I need to test I found that the red/yellow wire, position 7 (tan/light blue according to diagram) was the next to test. I tested and found power in the down position but no ground signal in the up position. This was the cause of the complaint. A faulty switch.

To further prove my diagnosis I pushed the switch in the up position and jumped terminals 7 & 4 together with a fused jumper wire and the window went up. 100% power window switch fault.

I installed a new switch and called this one done.